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The messages were the inspiration behind a capsule collection of T-shirts that feature the words LIVE POS , which I noticed hanging on a rack in her studio. PHOTOGRAPH BY TIZIANO MAGNI / SOPHIE THEALLET With a few exceptions, fashion designers taste for courting controversy is limited to the aesthetic realm: an exposed breast, say, or perhaps a stand against using fur. During Hillary Clintons Presidential campaign, they engaged in the way they knew bestwith fund-raising parties. Meanwhile, designers continued business as usualredefining silhouettes, for instance, which had been getting voluminous to the max. When Maria Grazia Chiuri, in her first runway show as the creative director of Christian Dior, in September, sent out models in white tees that read WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS , the response was tepid. Something changed after Donald Trumps Inauguration: during this years Fashion Week, politics spilled onto the runways. Prabal Gurung created an entire collection of slogan tees (The Future Is Female, We Will Not Be Silenced, Nevertheless She Persisted), which he paraded in front of Huma Abedin, the former vice-chair of Clintons campaign, to cheering and applause. (Some of the proceeds from the collection will go to the A.C.L.U., Planned Parenthood, and Gurungs own Shikshya Foundation Nepal.) Last Sunday, Public School, a trendy young label known for tailoring hoodies and other street wear, presented slogan hats that read Make America New York. (The message seemed unlikely to resonate across the nations midlands, but the runway music was all-American: a throaty cover of Woody Guthries This Land Is Your Land.) The Council of Fashion Designers of America distributed big pink buttons emblazoned with the words Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthoodconveniently equipped with magnetic closures, the better to protect expensive clothing.

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